All Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.
A Surprise Recognition
The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.
“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.
The Namesake Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.
Rising Above the Giants
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.
The Philosophy of Warmth
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
A Path of Hard Work
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
A Accomplishment for the People
The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.